Posted 23 June 2008 - 09:04 AM
Ok, here are some more .w file tips then:
When adding street trackage you want the rail shape to be a specific distance below the street shape so only the top of the railhead shows. It actually needs a bit more than the top in order to be seen over distance and the amount of that "bit" is subjective. Here's what you do:
Add a single track of the same length as your street segment, placed about at the end and rotated roughly to be the same angle as the street. Do not worry about grade. Just ONE track. Then save.
Now open the .w file and locate that track segment (usually the last entry). Also locate the street segment, using the x position value as the the search method (one decimal place preswision is good enough). Verify you found the correct street segment by checking the y and z values in the .w file agaisnt the shape in RE. You want to do that as sometimes several shapes might have identical x values.
Having verified you found the right shape, copy the position and qdirection lines of the street shape and paste them over the same lines in the track shape. The Y value in the position line is altitude. For street trackage, subtract between 0.25m and 0.3m from the Y value to lower the track shape. The amount is up to you. Whatever value you use should be used at all times. Since this distance is a matter of personal taste, try 0.25 first. You can change it later. The qdirection value determins direction and grade. By using the values taken from the street shape, the track will now be perfectly aligned. Now save your .w file.
Return to RE. What you want to do now is force RE to re-read the .w file data. You do that by jumping several tiles away and back again. Jump at least 4 tiles. When you jump back, RE will need to re-read the .w file and when it does it will use the pasted in values. This step will go faster if the tile you jump to is empty. It is ok to jump off the route too.
Having jumped out and back again, to ensure the .tdb knows what you did in the .w file, you must mouse click the track once. You can see the .tdb action by noticing the thin, white, path lines above the track shape are not properly aligned before you click the track... and are aligned afterwards. That click tells the software to update the .tdb and redraw the path lines. Having done this, now assess whether the revised Y position value is suitable. If not, edit it again in the .w and repeat the jump away, back, and mouse click steps until you're satisified with the results. Then continue w/ the next steps.
Having aligned the one track shape in all ways -- length, direction, and grade, you can now add more tracks using RE. As you set down track shapes, I recommend you use the exact same length and grade as what the street does. The end result should be properly aligned track positioned an identical distance under the road because all of the new track shapes are position off the first one -- the one you placed so carefully.
A few warnings: the repositioning of the first track, as described above, will only work if the track shape is all alone. As soon as you add a second shape, connected to the first, you'll have all sorts of very bad problems is you edit the x, y, or z values. So don't do that. Get it right before you add any other tracks. If you add tracks and then decide the altitude should be different, pull out all but one of the street tracks, save in RE, and then start again to edit in the .w file. That'll be ok.
Sometimes street shapes are odd lengths, such as crossings. Just try your best to get the tracks shapes the same length as the street. Minor differences are ok... but they will add up.
Same problem as above... sometimes you cannot get the slope value of the track to match up perfectly to the road. Accept it and move on. It'll cause some discrepency over distance but at least you can compensate a bit as you go.
Last thought: Virtually all street shapes ignore the reality that streets have a "roadbed". Roads are not thin, flat shapes after all. This can be a problem if the terrain pokes thru these thin shapes and from what I've seen, selecting a street shape and pressing the Y key to adjust terrain often causes more problems than it fixes. So... if you want you terrain to stay down and not poke thru your street shapes, run some track under the streets, exactly as described above. Then, by pressing the / key, you can dip your camera underground and look up from below. Here, it's very easy to mouse select the track shape instead of the street shape. Select the track and press the Y key. As the track is lower than the street, the terrain movement will be to the lower altitude. When you are done, use RE to delete all those track shapes -- they've been used as tools, nothing more, so pull 'em out.